Our Monday morning workweek started with the beginning of a two-day hike along the Wild Coast. We had tossed the idea around a bit before arriving in Coffee Bay, but we weren’t sure if the trip would actually happen. The first night in Coffee Bay we met a guide that agreed to take us from our current backpackers all the way to Bulungula, a village and a backpackers about 20 km down the coast. The thing was, he wanted to make the group four people.

We spent the week meeting new people and trying to convince them to do the hike. Some sounded genuinely interested but it wasn’t until 9:30 the night before that we managed to find our third person and the trip was officially deemed a go. We agreed to leave at 10:30 the following morning, but check out mix ups and waiting on a group that was hiking with us only as far as Hole in the Wall pushed our departure until a bit after eleven. The African sun was in full effect at this point.

The segment to Hole in the Wall was the hardest part of the entire hike. By the time we arrived to our river crossing, we were happy to have to get in the water. Our guide, Silas, took one look at the incoming tide and shouted, “We have to get across now!” as he waded in. Sure enough, as we were sitting there, the water was steadily climbing the banks of the river. Holding our daypacks over our heads, we crossed the chest deep water. Once our belongings were safe and on high ground, we hung out for a bit to enjoy the nice swimming area by Hole in the Wall. We had done this hike a couple of days before, but the water was so much warmer now. It was lovely.

Crossing the River

Fully refreshed, we set off to complete the last two hours of our hike to our midway point in Lubanzi village. The scenery was fresh and up we went. It didn’t take us long to see the Transkei ‘Big Five’ (Cows, Horses, Sheep, Goats, Pigs). The villagers allow their livestock to roam freely during the day and they return them to the pens at night. Everything here is definitely free-range and grass fed meat. We moved through a village where a group of women were making bricks and a little boy came to greet us on the trail. He didn’t understand any English, but was intrigued by the white passersby. He knew what a high five was though!

Wild Lubanzi Backpackers

Upon arrival to Wild Lubanzi Backpackers we were offered showers and a cold welcome beer. Perfect. The place was absolutely incredible. They’re located seaside with expansive views of coastline and, my favorite, the horizon. Our small group was the only guests for the evening, and it made for a serene atmosphere. We actually didn’t want to leave in the morning. We were shown the garden on the grounds which has such an diverse array of edibles including lemongrass, passion fruit, banana trees, a couple of coffee trees, peppers, herbs, and much more. We explored their compound that has a tree house above the main living area as well as one inside the dorms. Our hosts, Aiden and Rahel, were very knowledgeable and we enjoyed our conversations with them.

Alas, the next morning came quickly. We learned then that our guide, Silas, had dealt with a stomach bug through the night. We ate breakfast and discussed the possibility of carrying on by ourselves. Luckily, Silas was tough and ready to take the day on, and so we left our little oasis on the coast in order to continue our trek to Bulungula. The hiking passed with amazing views. Grassy mountains give way to seaside cliffs. The ocean swells up and with each passing wave reaches higher and higher upon the rocky faces of the mountains. We climbed mountains in some parts (half sliding down the other side) and walked on completely deserted beaches for other stretches. Well, deserted except for the animals.

The Beaches